Free Crochet Doll Pattern (Easy Amigurumi Doll for Beginners)
This free crochet doll pattern is an easy beginner-friendly amigurumi doll worked from the head down, joining arms later, and includes removable outfits, which include undergarments and a doll crochet dress pattern. (All FREE Patterns) And the doll stands at 14 inches High.
You can customize the doll with different hairstyles, facial features, and clothing, making it perfect for gifts, play, amigurumi dolls, and creative character designs.
This crochet doll pattern has been made again and again for children who truly play with their dolls.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. All opinions are my own.
It’s a simple, dependable basic amigurumi doll design that holds its shape and stands up to everyday handling.
The same base has been used to create ballerinas, princesses, and themed characters inspired by children’s favourite stories.
I have also made these, husband and wife, as a special keepsake as a request custom order for a bride and groom.
Materials & Supplies
Everything used in this free crochet doll pattern is easy to source and beginner-friendly. The materials listed below create a sturdy, long-lasting crochet doll that holds its shape well, even with regular play.
Yarn
- Double Knit 100g of DK yarn (or 300m / 330yd) (for a small Doll) 150 Grams of Aran / worsted weight yarn for the doll body (14 inches High made with ARAN weight yarn )
- Choose a skin tone shade you like (beige and light neutrals work beautifully)
- Cotton yarns such as Lily Sugar’n Cream are especially durable and washable
- Small extra <25 grms amounts of yarn for:
- Hair colour (brown, beige, black, or any shade you prefer)
- Clothing and accessories
DK yarn can be used, but finished size will be smaller.
Crochet Hooks – Using the Yarn Under Single crochet X stitch
- 3.50mm crochet hook (for Double knit YARN = slightly smaller doll)
- 4.00 mm crochet hook if you are using Aran weight for the head and doll body
- Optional 4.50 mm crochet hook for dresses or looser clothing
- Some makers prefer steel or aluminium hooks for tighter stitches in amigurumi
Remember: the mm crochet hook choice affects stitch tightness; tighter stitches help prevent gaps. I prefer to work amigurumi in Yarn under Single crochet instead of Yarn over. This creates an X-type stitch, and there are no gaps at all in the doll.
How to Crochet the Yarn‑Under Method (US Terms)
The yarn‑under method changes only one movement in your single crochet. Instead of yarn over, you yarn under before pulling up a loop.
It feels unusual at first, but once your hands get it, the stitches become beautifully tight
- Insert your hook into the stitch as normal.
- Instead of wrapping the yarn over the hook…
- Bring the yarn under the hook from front to back.
- Think of it like “scooping” the yarn from underneath.
- Pull that yarn‑under strand through the stitch. You now have 2 loops on your hook.
- Bring the yarn under the hook a second time.
- Pull through both loops to finish the stitch.
Materials & Tools
- Stitch markers (great for working continuous rounds to keep track of rounds)
- Yarn needle / yarn tapestry needle
- Safety eyes (size is personal preference)
- For young children, embroidered eyes are recommended instead
- Poly-fil / polyfill stuffing
- Scissors
- Embroidery thread for facial features
Yarn & Stitch Notes (Important)
- This pattern uses single crochet (sc) throughout (or if tyour using Yarn UNDER single crochet Throughout
- Increases (sc inc / 2sc) and decreases (sc dec / dec) shape the doll
- Worked in continuous rounds (no slip stitch joins unless stated).
Ad-Free PDF Version
A complete ad-free PDF pattern is available if you prefer a clean, printable version or want to support the creator of this pattern.
The PDF includes the full instructions in one place and is ideal for offline use.
Abbreviations & Stitch Guide
Pattern written in US crochet terms
This crochet doll pattern uses basic amigurumi stitches. If you’re comfortable with these abbreviations, you’ll be able to follow the pattern with confidence.
Crochet Abbreviations
you DO NOT need to know how to make a magic ring to crochet this doll, each start is made with a chain 2, and working all the first rounds sts into the first chain.
- ch – chain
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sc – single crochet
- 2sc / sc inc – increase (2 single crochet in the same stitch)
- sc2tog / sc dec / dec – decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
- sl st – slip stitch
- RND / Rnd – round
Stitch & Construction Notes
- The doll is worked in continuous rounds
- Do not join at the end of each round unless stated
- Move the stitch marker down after completing each round
- Always finish the round at the stitch marker
Skill Notes for Beginners
- Increases and decreases shape the doll body, head, legs, and arms
- Decreases may create slight stitch distortion — this is normal in amigurumi
- Using yarn under instead of yarn over can help create tighter stitches
Safety Notes
- Safety eyes are optional and should be sized appropriately
- For babies and toddlers, embroidered facial features are recommended
Understanding This Pattern
This pattern is written in a traditional amigurumi style.
NOTES:
ARMS: you can join the ARMS of the crochet doll as you go, or wait until finished head/body and arms, then sew arms into position.
EYE placement: If you want to use safety eyes, I have mentioned where to place these on your doll. REMEMBER: Where you position the eyes establishes the doll’s front, so place them carefully
FREE Crochet DOLL PATTERN STARTS HERE
Arms (Make 2)
Chain 2 .
Rnd 1: 5 sc in 1st chain.
Rnd 2: *2sc,sc*, repeat **around (8sts)
Rnd 3 TO Rnd 22: sc around (stuff arm lightly here)
Rnd 23: sc 2 tog around 3 times, until 4 Sts remain, fold arm in HALF and slst along to join the 2 sides to close arm Finish off and cut yarn.
Make 2nd Arm exactly the same
Doll – Head
Using MC
Round 1: Ch 2, work 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (8 sts)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (16 sts)
Round 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around. (24 sts)
Round 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * around. (32 sts)
Round 5: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts; rep from * around. (40 sts)
Round 6 to round 15: sc in each st around. (40 sts)
(If you are using Safety eyes! affix safety eyes between Rnd 7 & Rnd 8 evenly apart. The placement of these will now determine the front side of your doll)
Round 16: *sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sts; rep from * around. (32 sts)
Round 17: * sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog,; rep from * around. (24 sts)
Begin stuffing head firmly.
Round 18: *sc2tog, sc in next st; rep from * around. (16 sts)
Round 19: * sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog in next ; rep from * around. ( 12sts)
Round 20: sc in each st around (12sts)
Round 21: sc in each stitch around
STUFF NECK And top of body tightly HERE–
BODY:
Shoulders: Round 22: 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts around (16 sts). Arms can be joined HERE as you go, or I prefer to SEW the arms into this position after i have finished.
Round 23: 2sc in next st, sc in next (24 sts)
BODY: Round 24 to Round 42: sc in each stitch around (24 sts)
LEGS : (Divide the Body into 2 x 12 sts each leg)
Fold the body in half, making sure the arms sit neatly at opposite sides.
- The eyes should now be positioned at the front center of the doll.
- Place a stitch marker in the stitch directly opposite the eyes—this marks the center back.
- If needed, single crochet along until you reach this marked center stitch. This will become the new starting point for your rounds.
- Each leg will be worked over 12 stitches.
Round 1 of LEG : leaving 12 sts unworked
work the first st directly over the half of the body into the stitch opposite, to make the first leg, SC in each stitch around (12 sts)
Round 2 to Round 18: sc in each st around (12sts)
Change to Shoe colour HERE, and make sure the leg has enough stuffing in it to make it even with the other leg.
Rnd 19 to Round 22: sc in each stitch around
Rnd 23: 2sctog in each st, repeat around,
- Fasten off and weave in ends through the remaining sts to finish.
- Sew ARMS into position now if you did not join as you crocheted.
Now you have your basic crochet doll, you can continue to crochet a little dress and undergarment pants
**If making the Ballerina, attach a length of yarn at the bottom of legs colour change and tie around legs, either in a bow or secure if for small children
Little Dolls Pants
Leave a long tail to be able to see the seams together at end of round 4
ch 30,
Row 1 – 4: Dc in 4th chain from hook, and dc in each stitch around (27) slip to join, ch2 (On the LAST rnd do not ch2)
Row 5: Fold work in half, (A to A) short side to short side, to form a circle.
make sure the join seam is directly in the middle of the tube. Sew to close
With back seam positioned in the middle of your work
Ch 4 (this is for the crotch)
and join to the opposite side of work, (count 13sts along ) with a sl st directly opposite.
Row 6: Work *sc, ch2, sc in next stitch * around each of the 2 legs,
(skipping over the chain 4 you made, and finish by turning work and
working 1 single crochet along the chain 4 and slip into 1st chain of ch4, to finish.
Fasten off weave in ends.
If you want to make a chain length to thread through alternative posts of the double crochets in the first row of pants and use to tie in a bow
OR use the length left after fastening off and join the round to close the gap and weave in ends.
Crochet Doll DRESS
Notes: You will turn the first couple of rounds (this makes the neck area so that the dress can be put on and taken off for playing at dressing up.
I attached a little length of tulle along the underside of the skirt to help it sit out.
in the same weight of yarn and hook size you made the Doll : In your chosen colour
Ch 25,
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st, ch1 turn (24)Row 2: Sc in first 5 sts, ch 2, skip 3, sc in next 8 sts, skip 3, ch2, sc in last 5 sts. ch1, turn (22)
Row 3: sc in each stitch including the newly formed sts made by the ch2) continue to to end (22)
Row 4: sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc to end.
(DO NOT TURN, BUT continue working in rounds from now on), slip to
join, to the first stitch of the 4th round.
FROM NOW ON, join at the end of each round and Ch 1 at the start
Work the 1st Stitch into the BASE of the Ch from now on.
Row 5: ch1, sc around, slip st to join.
Row 6: ch1, sc around, slip st to join.Rnd 7: ch1, sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st sc to last, slip st to join.
Rnd 8: ch1, sc around, slip st to join.
Rnd 9: ch1, sc around, slip st to join.
Rnd 10: ch1, sc around, slip st to join.
Rnd 11: ch1, sc around, slip st to join.
Rnd12: ch2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next* Repeat ** around slip st to join.
Rnd 13: ch2, * dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next* Repeat ** around slip st to join.
Rnd 14: ch2, * dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next* repeat **around slip st to join.
Rnd 15: ch2, *dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next* repeat ** around. slip st to join.
Rnd 16: ch2, dc in every stitch around slip st to join.
Rnd 17: *ch3 slip into next stitch*, repeat ** around. (picot) slip st to join.
FASTEN OFF and weave in ALL ENDS
Adding HAIR to your DOLL
The ballerina style top bun crochet hair pattern
Very easy Ballerina Hair wig for Crochet Doll
To start:
Rnd1: Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook and then work a further 9 sc into the same space.(10sc)
Rnd 2: 2sc into each, stitch around, (20)
Rnd 3: sc in each, stitch around (20)
Rnd 4: sc in each, stitch around (20)
Rnd 5: *2cstog, sc*,Repeat **around (13)
Rnd 6: 2sc into each, stitch around (24)
Rnd 7: Working in, BACK LOOPS from here on in, *2hdc, hdc* Repeat ** around. (39)
Rnd 8 – Rnd 9: BLhdc in each stitch around
Rnd 10: SC in first stitch, hdc around,
Rnd 11: Chain1, SC INTO the Previous Rounds sc stitch, Working in Back loops. Double crochet in Each stitch around until the last 2 stitches, Sc in next and slip stitch into the last stitch.
Leave a length of yarn to attach your Hairpiece to the doll head
Below are 3 other methods of attaching hair to a doll.
1. The Loop‑Through (Latch Hook) Method
Perfect for: long hair, ponytails, braids, realistic styles
How to do it
- Cut yarn strands twice the length you want the finished hair.
- Insert your hook into a stitch on the head.
- Fold one strand in half.
- Grab the folded loop with your hook and pull it through the stitch.
- Pull the two loose ends through the loop and tighten gently.
Pros
- Fast
- Very secure
- Great for styling
Tips
- Work in rows from the bottom up for full coverage.
- For natural hairlines, space strands closer at the front and wider at the back.
2. The Sew‑In Method
Perfect for: shorter hair, boy dolls, bobs, fringes, textured looks
How to do it
- Cut yarn strands the length you want.
- Thread one strand onto a yarn needle.
- Insert needle into a stitch on the head and pull through, leaving a tail.
- Re‑insert the needle into the next stitch and pull through.
- Tie the two ends together inside the head (optional) or leave loose for a natural look.
Pros
- Very neat
- Great for short hairstyles
- Doesn’t add bulk
Tips
- Use this method for bangs/fringe by sewing strands only at the front.
3. The Wig Cap Method
Perfect for: removable hair, styled hair, curly hair, wigs
How to do it
- Crochet a small cap that fits the doll’s head.
- Add hair to the cap around the front sides and back using the loop‑through or sew‑in method.
- Sew or glue the wig cap onto the doll’s head.
Pros
- Lets you style hair off the doll
- You can make multiple wigs
- Very clean finish
Tips
- Use this method for curly yarn, brushed yarn, or faux fur yarn.
How to Make the Hair Look Natural
- Add more strands at the hairline and parting
- Add fewer strands at the crown
- Trim after styling
- Use a slicker brush to brush out acrylic yarn for fluffy hair
- Steam lightly (not touching the yarn) to relax curls or waves
FASTEN OFF and weave in ALL ENDS
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Hi if you can send me a real email address i will forward the original pdf onto you as this email you have used is pining it straight back to me thanks or send an email to lisaauch1@gmail.com (my neice redesigned the doll this way to be easier to get the clothes on and off Thanks Lisa
I sent an email a few minutes ago as I’d rather not have my email address be publicly visible here. Thank you again! You really made my day!